ritharaki, also known as manestra or orzo, is a Greek paste of rice-like shape and consistency. Place lamb cubes, onion and garlic in a heavy oven-proof pan; sprinkle with oregano, salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons melted butter. Brown meat and onions in oven which has been preheated to 450°. When the meat is brown, add wine and cook another 20 minutes, basting frequently. Reduce oven temperature to 350°, add 2 cups water and bake until the meat is tender, about 45 minutes. Remove meat from the pan and keep warm. Then add tomato sauce, 3 cups water, and 1/4 pound butter to the roasting pan; correct seasoning with salt and pepper and bring the sauce to a boil in the oven.

Meanwhile preboil the paste in salted water for 5 minutes; drain well and add to sauce in the roasting pan. Stir well and bake another 20 minutes, or until the paste is the consistency of cooked rice. It’s preferable to serve in individual casseroles, each containing a mount of paste and the lamb alongside. Serve with grated cheese. Boiled greens with olive oil and lemon are a fine compliment to this dish.